A Visit to Szentendre, Hungary on New Year’s Day

Most everything in Budapest - businesses, museums, and every grocery store - is closed today for the New Year's Day national holiday. Therefore, outdoor sightseeing is the best activity for the day.

The small town of Szentendre, just outside of Budapest, is known for being beautiful and charming. When the Christmas markets are open (through ~Jan. 7), it is good way to spend 2 hours on a cold winter day.

A visit to Szentendre is a worthwhile way to escape the city crowds and get a taste of what lies outside of Hungary's capital

The train to Szentendre takes 40 minutes from Budapest

Szentendre is a historic town with winding cobblestone streets and narrow alleys

Fun Fact: A show we watch, The Witcher, was filmed here. This town was portrayed as Yennefer's birthplace, where her stepfather sold her to Tissaia, the mage

On a warm day, a stroll along the Danube River is a popular pastime in Szentendre

I wasn't 100% certain we purchased the correct train tickets to Szentendre so I was hoping they wouldn't be checking on New Year's Day. A bit nervous about incurring a fine, I felt like I was back in school hoping we wouldn't have a pop quiz. No such luck. The inspector came around near the Rómaifürdő station and checked to make sure we had our two necessary tickets. Whew, yes we did! He then wished us a Happy New Year and moved on. However, on the way back, a young Hungarian couple wasn't so fortunate. They had the Budapest ticket but not the extended ticket necessary for Szentendre. They were fined 12,000 HUF ($30) each on the spot - almost 30 times more than the cost of the ticket (Szentendre train tickets cost 450 HUF / $1.13). Note: If you can't pay on the spot, the fine doubles to 25000 HUF / $60 when mailed!

Expect to pay steep fines if you don't have a correct and validated train ticket

Back in Budapest, we weren't the only ones with afternoon plans to visit City Park; the park was crawling with people. Budapest is a very popular destination in the week between Christmas and New Years.

Heroes' Square, at the entrance to City Park, was completed in 1900 to

commemorate the first 1,000 years of Hungary, the founding tribes, and the Hungarian kings

Outside of Vajdahunyad Castle in City Park

Located in the heart of City Park, next to the Vajdahunyad Castle, this inviting outdoor ice rink is one of the largest in Europe

The rental bikes outside our apartment dusted with snow

And with that, we've come to the end of our trip. We had a great time exploring new places together. We've all earned our travel badges, including Vivian for completing her first Webber international trip. Although grateful to have several sunny days, traveling day after day in the cold weather, staying outside for long periods of time, dressed like the stay-puff marshmallow man, and not having easy access to bathrooms, adds a layer of discomfort unlike our regular trips. (Restrooms, including train stations and tourist attractions, cost money in Switzerland, Austria, and Hungary.) Traveling during the height of tourist season, just like us, there are a lot of people and families on vacation to visit Europe's big cities for the Christmas and New Year's holidays.

Logistics:

At the Budapest Metro stations, workers stand at the exit to make sure you have a validated ticket. To avoid a hefty fine, make sure you scan your app or stamp your paper ticket prior to boarding. The easiest way to avoid the hassle is to have a day pass.

Important read for a Szentendre Day trip: Obviously this process is confusing if a Hungarian couple couldn't figure it out. Even though you take only one train and don't change trains, two train tickets are required - one for the Budapest section and one for the Szentendre section. Both tickets are easily purchased via an automated ticket machine (with an English language option) in the stations. (Or if you are using a Budapest multi-day transportation pass, it counts for the Budapest section.)

The second ticket, called a Békásmegyer Szentendre extension, is found in the machine in a section called Local Favorites or Suburban Railway Extension Tickets.

Once you step onto the train, you need to validate both paper tickets in the yellow validation boxes; stick your ticket in and pull down the button.

Soaking Up the Fun at Budapest Szechenyi Bath

On a chilly 25-degree New Year's Eve morning, we headed out in our bathing suits.

Budapest is renowned for its elegant thermal bathhouses with medicinal hot spring waters, which have been an integral part of its culture and history for centuries. With 120 hot springs, Budapest is known as the World's Spa Capital.

Thermal baths, part of life here for centuries, are a must-do while in Budapest. In winter, a thick steam cushion hangs over the hot outdoor pools.

A highlight of our trip, it is a unique and unforgettable experience to hide from the cold winter weather in the relaxing Szechenyi Bath thermal pools, the largest and most famous bath of Budapest

Don't miss the outdoor fun "whirlpool" that spins you around! Yoo-hoo! I called to the kids, whirling past them as they were still settling into the hot pool.

32 degrees outside, the 93-degree outdoor pool was exciting but not hot enough enough to sit still - if we weren't jetting around in the whirlpool. Jeremy said the way to warm up is to get out into the freezing air - then it feels really hot when you get back in! We found a warmer inside pool. I ended the experience in the steaming hot sauna that warmed me to the core. The overall experience was so much fun. I felt completely rejuvenated - a great way to start my birthday!

When we left two hours later, there was still no line but the pools were crowded enough to not move freely.

Szechenyi Bath has a total of 18 pools (3 outdoor/15 indoor). This map also shows the different pool temperatures.

Budapest tram 2, a route that provides some great sights, is decorated with approximately 40 thousand lights for the Christmas season

Spending New Year's Eve (called "Szilveszter") in Budapest is an exciting, crowded, noisy affair with a plethora of outdoor festivities

The St Stephens square had a light show every 30 minutes

As soon as it gets dark, people start lighting fireworks all over the city

We went back to the apartment after barely making it past a malfunctioned firework that exploded on the ground

Watching the midnight fireworks going off all over the streets of Budapest from the safety of our apartment

Logistics:

Szechenyi Thermal Baths:  I missed the opportunity to get fast pass tickets that allow you to walk right in before 11am or after 3pm so we bought regular entry tickets that allow us to enter as space allows. We walked right in at 8:15am on December 31. Make sure to use the official website to buy your tickets.

Choose between the cheaper ticket that gives you a lockers and open gender-specific changing room or upgrade for ~$2 to your own private changing room; it belongs only to you so you can store your stuff there (instead of a locker). We chose the private route; our six rooms were randomly assigned nowhere near each other.

Flip flops (recommend waterproof) are mandatory. Don't forget a towel. Nothing can be rented; it can only be purchased. If you read that you can rent towels or slippers, the rules changed after Covid and your website is out of date.

Signs say you must take a shower before entering the pools but no one is enforcing any of the rules. Ticket includes access to pools, saunas, and steam rooms. When you're all done, after changing, look for bathing suit spinning machine - we found one in the private changing room area. In the main bathroom I found plastic bags.

You can bring in food or buy food and alcohol. Neither are allowed in any of the pools.

Wandering Around Budapest and Its Parliament Building

On the Pest side of the riverbank, the striking and perfectly symmetrical Parliament building is a truly iconic symbol of Budapest and certainly the most recognizable building in Hungary.

 

The Hungarian Parliament building's sheer size, ~ 3 ½ football fields, is difficult to capture in a photo

Tours of the inside are in small guided groups (with headsets in your own language) that make it feel like you're the only one in the immense and peaceful building - making for a great experience. Although the 45-minute tour only includes the Main Staircase, the Dome Hall, and the Session Hall of the Upper House, it is nice that you aren't rushed through them.

The beauty and grandeur of Budapest's Parliament building, with its sweeping staircases and intricate ceiling designs - all accented with a large amount of gold

Housed inside - and strictly forbidden to photograph - is the original Holy Crown which is said to have been given to St Stephen, the first king of Hungary, in 1000. Interestingly, after WWII, the United States safely housed the crown for 33 years. President Jimmy Carter returned the crown, and ironically he died on December 29, the same day we arrived to Hungary.

Afterwards we went on our own little walking tour through Budapest:

The Shoes on the Danube memorial is in remembrance of the several thousands of Jews who were forced to remove their shoes before they were shot into the Danube in 1944

Budapest, like Vienna, also has a Saint Stephen Basilica, but it is named after the Hungarian king. In front of it is one of Budapest's favorite Christmas markets. 

We walked down the pedestrian-only Váci Utca (street), stopping for lunch, and ending at the Grand Market Hall.

A tasty croque madame at Mia's Cafe

The Grand Market Hall roof is adorned with Hungary's signature Zsolnay ceramic tiles

We didn't last long in the overly crowded Grand Market Hall. At more than 100,000 square feet, it is interesting to see for a minute, but has bad reviews for its food and souvenir prices.

In the afternoon, I started to get antsy again; teased by yet another Apple weather forecast of brilliant sunshine, Chris and I gravitated back to the views on the Buda side.

Fisherman's Bastion is named after the fisherman's guild who was responsible for guarding this stretch of the city's walls during the Middle Ages.

The best spot to capture a picture of Parliament is right on the opposite bank of the Danube. Come here in the early evening to see the last shafts of sunlight illuminating this impressive building.

We had better luck tonight with traditional Hungarian food at Klauzal Cafe.

Restaurants in Budapest automatically add a service charge of 15% or more.

On our way home for the night, we stopped at the popular Szimpla Kert "ruin" bar. The concept of a Ruin Bar is to convert an abandoned building into a rustic and cool place to hang out.

With over 400 drinks offered at the nine bars inside Szimpla Kert, it makes for a very cool and fun bar

Logistics:

Originally I thought just seeing Budapest's Parliament building would cure my obsession. However, upon further research, I discovered that the interior of the building is just as impressive as its exterior. I was certain my discovery came too late in the game to get online tickets. They have a wonky system where they look like they're sold out. Then randomly they'll release more tickets. I was prepared to wait in line for same-day tickets, but unexpectedly a month before our visit I saw six more online tickets show up!

Arriving 13 minutes after opening, the line was already all the way out the door if you didn't have tickets - or if you had reservations but didn't bring your printed tickets. SKIP THIS LINE IF YOU HAVE YOUR TICKETS. (45 minutes later the line was gone which I assume meant the rest of the day was completely sold out.)

Chasing Daylight in Budapest

We boarded the last train of our two-week trip, as we were headed to our final destination: Budapest, Hungary. Parliament, its most recognizable landmark, is famous from splashing the covers of travel brochures the world over.  We are going there!

After dropping off our bags at the apartment we would be calling home for the next four nights, we got a bit of a late start. One thing I do not like about traveling during the winter is the limited daylight hours. We wanted to be along the banks of the Danube River for sunset.

Spoiler alert: this photo is our view on the wall of our apartment

On our way to the river, we had an obligatory stop to get a fresh hot chimney cake. A strip of sweet dough is wrapped around a spindle, baked, and coated with a sugar topping.

Gelateria Pichler is a popular place to get a delicious chimney cake

Contrary to common belief, or perhaps days of yore, the Hungarian capital is not a cheap city, and prices continue to go up each year. This became evident as we cut through Vörösmarty Square, at the very heart of Budapest, and slowed down to glance at its Christmas market. It was the most expensive Christmas market of the five countries we have been to.

The giant grilled sausage looked mouth-watering - for a whopping 6500 HUF/ €16

We finally made it to Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the Danube River - just in time for "sunset". Apple's weather app says it has been sunny here all afternoon … not even remotely accurate. It has been foggy ever since we got here. No sun, no blue sky, no sunset.

When the Szechenyi Chain Bridge was finished in 1849, Buda and Pest - the two halves of Hungary's capital - were physically and symbolically connected. It was the biggest bridge in the world suspended on chains at that time.

In the short time it took us to cross the bridge, its lights came on. It's 4:18pm. And dark.

Fun Fact: Until July 6,1941, Hungary operated according to a UK-style left-hand traffic order

Next up, the view I've been waiting decades for: Budapest's impressive Parliament, set on the mighty Danube River.

Even through the hazy fog, beholding Parliament for the first time is still breathtaking

Without hesitation, next we walked up the slope of Castle Hill to Fisherman's Bastion. I instantly fell in love!

Overlooking the city with its fairytale white towers, Fisherman's Bastion is one of the most beautiful sights in Budapest

Included in the iconic Fisherman's Bastion is the landmark Matthias Church, dating back to the 12th century. Its roof is beautifully decorated in Zsolnay tiles of bright orange, brown, green, red, and white.

Somehow the tiles atop Matthias Church look even more stunning in the dark

For dinner, duped by what had to have been bribed fake reviews, we tried touristy "Goulash and Langosh Bar". Don't go there!

Despite the fog, the lack of sun and daylight, and the crowds, it was still easy to appreciate the rich and impressive architecture of Budapest.

Logistics:

When looking to buy our train tickets for Vienna to Budapest two months before our trip, somehow I happened across the train company Regiojet - and was able to pay half the rate of Austrian line OBB.

Hungary's currency, the forint (HUF), has an exchange rate of .0025 USD. Conveniently they also price their goods in (and accept) euros so making the conversion in your head is simple.

24 Hours in Vienna

Having survived our night on the overnight train and checked our luggage for the day in lockers for 1/4 of the price of Switzerland, we were already feeling pretty accomplished by 8:30am. With 24-hour metro passes in hand, we left the train station ready to explore all Vienna has to offer - in a day.

Vienna, the capital of Austria, is located in the east of the country along the banks of the Danube River. As the home for the ruling Habsburg family, who became one of the most powerful dynasties of Europe through strategically executed marriages, Vienna has a mix of monumental buildings remaining from their wealth and influence.

We started on the outskirts of Vienna with Schönbrunn Palace, the main summer residence of the Habsburg emperors.  With a total of 1,441 rooms, the palace exudes the "more is more" lifestyle of impressing visitors with one's wealth.

What started as a modest hunting lodge, Schönbrunn Palace is now an exquisite palace absolutely worth a visit

Each room is pristine and uniquely decorated

The glorious Hall of Ceremonies held lavish balls, receptions and banquets

At Schloss Schönbrunn with its expansive gardens in the background

The Gloriette, built in 1775, is a beautiful focal point and worth walking out for a closer look

Vienna has numerous Christmas markets, many of which close by Dec. 26. Some markets continue to stay open, with the largest one in the front courtyard of Schönbrunn Palace.

The best sausage - encased in a baguette bun - was our favorite! 

After leaving the palace, we went to the city center. One of the most striking landmarks of Vienna is St. Stephen's Cathedral, named after Christian martyr Saint Stephen.

St. Stephen's Cathedral's massive south tower (Türmerstube) is its highest point and a dominant feature of the Vienna skyline.

Following the tower's completion in 1433, at 448 ft, St. Stephen's Cathedral is the tallest church in Austria and the 9th tallest church in the world.  It is the second highest church tower in Europe after that of Strasbourg's cathedral, which we just climbed last week.

The original roof, consisting of wood, burned down in 1945 and was replaced with a ~90-ft high roof with a slope of 80 degrees - so steep that snow simply slides off.

The new roof is made of 230,000 glazed tiles of different colors which form various mosaics and patterns. On the south side of the roof, the mosaics represent the double-headed eagle, symbol of the Austrian empire under the rule of the Habsburgs.

Next we wandered the streets to enjoy the mix of Vienna's monumental buildings and absorb Austria's rich cultural heritage. 

The staggeringly impressive buildings are so massive that pictures hardly do them justice

With most of Vienna's markets closed for the season, all that remains of Rathausplatz Christkindmarkt in front of the town hall is a very crowded ice skating rink

For dinner we had reservations at Pürstner and ate the best schnitzel we have ever had.

Logistics:

I hadn't bought our tickets for Schönbrunn Palace online in advance, as highly recommended for Austria's #1 tourist attraction, because they are only valid for the time you book and I couldn't be sure if our overnight train would be delayed. We were hoping to get tickets for the slightly longer Grand Tour that adds another impressive set of rooms worthy of seeing. Although the sign at the ticket office said that only state apartment tours (showing just nine rooms) were available, they were still willing to sell us the Grand Tour (~40 rooms).

St. Stephen's Cathedral has two towers that you can go up; you can climb up the south tower or take an elevator up the north tower. I always prefer climbing up high so chose the south tower, which was a mistake for two main reasons: 1) the south tower's platform is inside and only lets you look out its four cardinal-facing windows; the north tower has an outside platform. 2) the north tower offers a much better view of the ornate roof tiles. At 1pm on a Saturday, we had to wait at the ticket entrance for 15 minutes while they let the stairs clear out of crowds. It wasn't until they opened back up and we stepped inside that we saw the sign: cash only. They do not accept a student discount so the guy gave Chris the child rate.